152 A Sportswoman in India 



early, to Gulmerg, high up above Baramoula ; sending 

 our kit by coolies, with whom walked Sala Bux, our 

 own servant, and two syces. I had had great doubts 

 before leaving Murree as to whether an ayah would 

 be necessary or not ; I was thankful afterwards not to 

 be hampered with one. An ayah cannot walk ; she 

 is bound to ride. Supposing you wish to go over 

 country which is impracticable for mules, coolies will 

 carry your kit ; but it is annoying to be obliged to 

 have four extra coolies to carry a servant. Moreover, 

 as one is travelling with little or no luggage to speak 

 of, an ayah is not wanted to pack and unpack. In a 

 tent, what is there for her to superintend ? dust ? My 

 own experience of one on a march was that she was 

 always behind or in difficulties on the road ; that 

 she arrived at night tired, grumbling, and useless ; 

 and was, in fact, out of temper from the time she left 

 our own compound until the evening we arrived 

 back again. 



Sala Bux did all I wanted, as far as getting hot 

 water and calling me went ; he made my bed, brushed 

 my clothes, cleaned my boots, and packed my bedding. 

 His head was filled with something other than brains, 

 certainly ; but he was a well-intentioned fool. 



We left the central vale behind, and began climbing 

 the slopes of the mountains which immediately shut 

 it in on the south-west. Below, the green, flat expanse 

 stretching into the distance looked like a ready-made 

 hunting-country, and after brown Murree the fresh 

 verdure of the crops, the grass, little trees and hedges, 



