Kashmir 1 57 



up visions of the Chinese frontiers, of the Hindu 

 Kush, the Pamirs and Turkestan. 



It was hot riding along down below, and we found 

 the apples and pears we picked in dozens on the 

 edge of the path a great blessing. We each selected 

 the drink we would like to summon I forget what 

 but it was something very long and sparkling, with 

 ice tinkling in the glass. All day long we skirted 

 the Wular Lake, an unruffled green stretch, marsh 

 and water, perhaps ten miles long and six broad, 

 covered with water-lily and lotus leaves, rather like 

 the Norfolk Broads. The sunset over the leaves, the 

 reflexions, and the crimsons and saffrons on the oily 

 water, were something to remember. 



The Sind Valley quite fulfilled all our expectations : 

 the trees were luxuriant ; giant planes the chenar 

 with trunks the size of small houses, poplars, willows, 

 cypresses, walnuts, apples, pears, quinces, apricots, 

 cherries, mulberries ; there were acres of saffron, with 

 its beautiful purple light flowers, grown in fields; 

 higher up we were among deodars, hazels, birches, 

 virburnum, junipers, roses. And beneath all these 

 trees the path wound, close to the beautiful, rocky 

 Sind River, which rose far away up among the snow. 



At Kangan, our next camp, S.'s syce, a Madras 

 boy named " Mary," suddenly appeared with a fine 

 lamb in his arms, which he suggested we should buy 

 and have for dinner in two hours' time ! It was 

 purchased for half a crown and slain, and was acceptable 

 after incessant ducks and chickens these are to be 



