Kashmir 177 



tumbled off the edge of it, bounding down the slope 

 in great leaps. Luckily it was snowy, and not very 

 hard falling. But the last great bound spun me through 

 the air thirty feet, and landed me at full length on 

 my left side, half buried in snow, on a spot where the 

 slope was less steep, but uncomfortably near the edge 

 of the gully and the precipice. I believe I fainted at 

 that point. At any rate, it was a useful lesson, and not 

 forgotten on the present occasion. 



"As we tramped downwards, glorious lights and 

 colours were playing upon that most beautiful of 

 mountains Haramuk. We longed to turn round, to 

 linger, and to enjoy. The sun set behind the gap at 

 Baramoula, sending its brilliant light sweeping over the 

 Wular Lake and bathing Haramuk in glory. Our 

 long shadows hurried before us apace, as though they 

 would hasten towards the wondrous East. Gradually 

 the valley was steeped in purple shadow, the snows lost 

 their fiery tinge, and night I came on apace. 



" Was that the blue smoke of our camp-fire ? Not 

 long, and we were back in our tents, realising, as one 

 does at the end of a real hard day, such content as 

 is given to few, and to them but seldom in any 

 lifetime. 



" And over those drinks which are reserved for the 

 faithful, we vowed that Kashmir is the country to 

 visit, that mountain-climbing is a game worth the 

 candle." 



12 



