Fourteen Thousand Feet High 183 



Adalbert and the two Misses Talbot, with three 

 or four other English people, bearing a supply of 

 cameras, and with heaps of information for us about 

 the road. We should find it almost impracticable 

 from this side, was the gist thereof. In view of 

 this, we sent our own ponies straight on to Srinagar 

 by the Sind route, with their syces Mary, Jorm, 

 and Sedju ; ourselves hiring tats from Koolan to 

 go up to Yem Sar and across to Lidderwat. 



We camped at Koolan, and the next morning 

 had tents and all packed by 6.30 a.m. on nine ponies, 

 and had started on the great ascent. It took us 

 four hours to do seven miles, which gives some idea 

 of the steepness of the path. It was not only steep, 

 but terribly slippery with rain, and riding was quite 

 out of the question. I held on to my pony's long, 

 grey tail, and she towed me up a great part of the 

 way ; the baggage had several times to be taken off 

 the ponies, and carried for some distance by panting, 

 sweating coolies. 



We topped the Sind Valley at last ; deodar forests, 

 moss, and muddy channels were left behind ; we struck 

 out across open mountain. Clouds kept coming round 

 us, and showers of rain. Our camp that night at Yem 

 Sar was in a memorable spot. I see inscribed in my 

 diary, " Opened a bottle of brandy." (I remember it 

 was cold.) We were close to a little snow-water tarn, 

 steel-blue, reflecting the glaciers and rocky peaks, 

 which rose abruptly in sheer walls of shale and ice from 

 the water's edge. We were up at a height of about 



