1 86 A Sportswoman in India 



to the great glacier across the moraine. Here again 

 we found a huge ice-cavern formed by the Lidder 

 as it rushes from beneath the glacier ; we stood in the 

 cave it would be hard to say how many yards of 

 solid ice above our heads. 



The mountain Kolohoi, as seen from the head of 

 the Lidder, is exceptionally grand an abrupt peak, 

 with one immense glacier dividing it from the main 

 range. Lovely as Lidderwat was, we could not afford 

 to stay there long, and we were soon on the march 

 again down the valley. 



Our next camp, Pailgam, was much warmer, the 

 elevation being considerably less : it was a pretty little 

 place, quite an English settlement, every one living in 

 log huts or tents in the pine-woods. The Lidder 

 Valley, as compared with the Sind Valley, may be upon 

 a small scale and less grand, but it is quite as beautiful 

 in its way silver birches covering the mountain-sides, 

 and stretching over the river from either bank. But 

 the wretched goat-herds, the bukri-w alters, have much 

 to answer for in the Lidder Valley : it is a sin and a 

 shame to see the branches lopped and the naked, 

 ruined trunks, all for the sake of the foliage as fodder 

 for their miserable goats. 



From our camp every evening S. and Lalla went 

 out regularly and sat in the mucky (Indian cornfields) 

 watching for bears. Though the Kashmiris' crops 

 generally bore traces of these nightly marauders, all 

 their efforts were fruitless. 



From the last camp they made a longer expedition, 



