230 A Sportswoman in India 



Nowadays two mules might walk abreast along 

 many parts of the way. A Political Officer lives as 

 British Resident at Gilgit all the year round, snowed 

 up throughout the winter months, the many miles of 

 telegraph wires alone forming a communication with 

 the outer world. The Dards occupy the Gilgit basin 

 a cheerful, bold, independent people, caring little for 

 human life, but not bloodthirsty. Men and women 

 dress entirely in woollen trousers and choga (a long 

 robe). Their caps are characteristic, being merely long 

 woollen bags, rolled up at the edge till they fit close to 

 the head. The feet are wrapped in leather, with long 

 strips as binders. They abhor the cow, and will not 

 drink its milk nor eat its butter nor burn cow-dung. 

 Polo is a favourite game throughout Dardistan, as in 

 Balti, which is its home, or one of its homes. Wher- 

 ever Baltis or Dards live, the polo-ground may be 

 looked for. 



It was, then, the road to Gilgit along which we 

 were now marching. The post office, telegraph office, 

 and Government warehouses were all left behind at 

 Bandipore, together with most of the signs of civilisa- 

 tion ; the Happy Valley lay farther and farther below, 

 as we zigzagged up the abrupt ascent to the Tragbal 

 Pass ; and henceforth we met with no one, except an 

 occasional string of mules with transport on its way 

 to Gilgit, or a few Dards driving along baggage-ponies. 

 In nine miles we had ascended four thousand feet ; 

 a few miles farther, and we reached the rest bungalow 

 on the top of the Tragbal. 



