234 A Sportswoman in India 



or else " Gurrapore," which means Protector of the 

 Poor. 



I was out sketching one day by the Kishenganga, 

 when suddenly a voice said " Good morning," and a 

 sahib jumped down into the bed of the river where 

 I sat on a stone. He explained that he had been 

 camping up Burra Gaggai Nullah, and had heard of 

 us. He was in The Guides, and we found many 

 subjects in common, as well as shikar. He had only 

 seen one bar a singh, and after two hours' stalk found 

 it was too small to shoot. Six years ago Gaggai was 

 a sportsman's paradise, but it has been shot out. This 

 good Samaritan left a batch of old papers, which were 

 very welcome. 



The afternoon turned to heavy rain, and I was 

 obliged to sit in my little tent ; the evening hours were, 

 however, greatly cheered by the arrival of Armudneera, 

 dripping from head to foot, with a fine bundle of 

 newspapers, letters, etc., from Bandipore. It had been 

 growing colder than ever all day, and I had put on 

 everything I possessed. Kashmir red wine with hot 

 water made a warming drink, and some cherry brandy 

 was a luxury. The beastie cleared away my evening 

 meal, scudding backwards and forwards through the 

 drenching rain ; both he and Cooky came up once or 

 twice to the tent door, saying, " Burruff! Huzoor 

 bur ruff ! " I had not the faintest idea what burruff 

 meant ; but thanking Heaven that the tent did not 

 leak, so far, wrapping myself up from head to foot to 

 keep out the piercing cold, I went to bed. In the 



