ILLUSTRATIONS xv 



ENTRANCE TO THE SONAMARG GORGE 126 



THE KASHMIR BAG 128 



A BALTI VILLAGE, SHOWING STONE HUTS 131 



A BALTI NATIVE DANCE 131 



A BALTI BOY COOLIE 134 



ROPE BRIDGE ACROSS THE INDUS 139 



IBEX HEAD 142 



THE 44-iNCH HEAD 142 



SEARCHING FOR IBEX 147 



IBEX COUNTRY 147 



MY Six IBEX 150 



CENTRE OF THE ROPE BRIDGE 156 



The BARA MAHARAJAH SAHIB AND HIS STAFF . . . .161 



THE RAJAH OF SHIGAR AND HIS SUITE 161 



THE MEETING BETWEEN THE RAJAH AND THE BARA MAHA- 

 RAJAH SAHIB 163 



A "ROAD" IN BALTISTAN 166 



THE Two MARKHOR HEADS, SHOWING KADERA, SIDKA, AND 



THE LOCAL SHIKARI l68 



A "ROAD" IN BALTISTAN 171 



ONE OF OUR CAMPS IN BALTISTAN 174 



SHARPU HEAD, KADERA, SIDKA, AND LOCAL SHIKARI . . 176 

 COOLIES WAITING TO BE PAID AFTER A DAY*S MARCH . .179 



A CULTIVATED VALLEY IN BALTISTAN 182 



ASTORE 187 



BANDIPUR VILLAGE 190 



CAMP NEAR BANDIPUR 195 



CAMP IN THE BEAR COUNTRY 195 



