26 SPORT AND TRAVEL 



we were, the cheer of the rest-house appealed most 

 strongly. Rickshaws were engaged, and in a mo- 

 ment we were speeding up the road at that satis- 

 factory pace which a gentle reminder with one's 

 cane on the coolie's back always secures. I took it 

 for granted that my coolie knew where we wanted 

 to go; for although my knowledge of the Malay 

 language did not then include either of the much- 

 needed nouns " rest-house" or "hotel," I had care- 

 fully repeated both these words to him in English, 

 and he had bowed with such an expression of entire 

 comprehension that I felt no misgivings as to a 

 speedy arrival at the desired destination. So we 

 spun along in the darkness, I already beginning to 

 feel the cheer of the anticipation of a hot dinner 

 and dry clothes. 



Alas, for a traveller's innocent trust in the moral 

 responsibility of the oriental mind ! We were well 

 out in the country now ; the rain was pouring harder 

 than ever and dripping dispiritingly through the 

 rickshaw- top down my face and neck; not a light 

 was in sight to show signs of human habitation, and 

 the driving storm had quickly separated me from 

 my companions, shutting out all other sounds. 

 Then it was that I finally grasped the situation : my 

 coolie not only had no knowledge of my intended 

 destination, but took absolutely no interest in learn- 



