CHAPTER IV 



IMPRESSIONS OF NORTHERN INDIA: CAWNPORE, LUCK- 

 NOW, BENARES 



]HE scene changes wholly when you 

 move from Agra to Cawnpore; from 

 the lavish days of the Moguls you pass 

 over a couple of centuries to a time 

 when India had come under British control, and 

 you are appalled to remember that those few months 

 which made Cawnpore famous were not back some- 

 where in a half-veiled mediaeval era, but were in 

 the lifetime of our own fathers. You find yourself 

 in imagination living through those dark days of 

 1857 ; and as the guide leads you from landmark to 

 landmark, you picture all too vividly the scenes of 

 outrage which took place on that cheerless sun- 

 scorched landscape but half a century ago. The ar- 

 chitecture has changed too ; mausoleums, mosques, 

 and palaces have vanished, and in their place your 

 eye is held only by two quite modern edifices. One 

 is a little red-brick chapel, such as you would see in 

 an English village, and the other a marble statue 

 representing the Angel of the Resurrection, clasping 



