H2 SPORT AND TRAVEL 



we could make ourselves comfortable in what cos- 

 tume we pleased, so that somehow or other the hours 

 passed. There are no dining-cars on Indian trains, 

 but tea and soda are served through the windows at 

 various stations, and an ice-box is carried in every 

 wagon, besides which the train stops for the regular 

 meals. An attempt is made to cool the compartment 

 by an arrangement known in Hindustanee as the 

 tatti, which, on one's pressing a bolt, allows iced 

 water to trickle down the windows from a reservoir 

 above; but this makes too little difference in the 

 temperature of the compartment materially to les- 

 sen one's discomfort. Each traveller carries his own 

 bedding, which is made up by his " boy," who travels 

 sitting up, day and night, in a tiny compartment 

 opening from his master's. I pitied him, poor fel- 

 low, for ours was none too large for comfort in that 

 breathless heat. The journey was broken by a few 

 days' visit to Simla, the summer capital of India, 

 immortalized by Kipling, whence once again we 

 descended to the plains and continued westward. 

 On the morning after our arrival at Rawal Pindi 

 our baggage was loaded in ekkas curious two- 

 wheeled carts which make the journey to Srina- 

 gar (pronounced Sirinugger), the capital of Kash- 

 mir, in six days, as against the three days occupied 

 by the speedier tonga or passenger vehicle. There 



