THE JOURNEY INTO KASHMIR 117 



Kashmir is noted. In the centre of the city, on this 

 " Grand Canal," stands the Maharajah's palace, a 

 very grand affair, but not beautiful from the point 

 of view of European architecture. It was gayly dec- 

 orated when we arrived in honor of the return of the 

 Maharajah from his summer home, and the follow- 

 ing day we saw him come, with the whole popula- 

 tion of the city out to greet him. His reception was 

 most enthusiastic, and the countless craft gathered 

 in front of the palace for the occasion made a gay 

 picture. 



Europeans may not own land in Kashmir, for, 

 though under British influence, the Maharajah's 

 dominions are his own and very jealously he guards 

 them ; so most of the Englishmen who spend their 

 leaves of absence up here, with their wives and fam- 

 ilies, live on the side canals, in large comfortable 

 house-boats, or doongas, moving about as they 

 please, towing their kitchens behind. These canals 

 are beautiful spots to live on, for they are clean, 

 well-shaded, and with smooth, green banks. It is 

 indeed a delightful way to spend the summer. 



We were rather amused by the manner in which 

 our custom was secured by a certain firm of mer- 

 chants. Perry and I were endeavoring to flee from 

 a mob of some fifty cannibals in the shape of mer- 

 chants, cooks, shikaris, servants, etc., all thrusting 



