122 SPORT AND TRAVEL 



karis, provisions, and temporary cooking-stove. As 

 a rule it is hard to persuade the men to travel during 

 the night, but we had impressed the shikaris with 

 the fact that we wished to push on now without 

 more delay than was absolutely necessary and that 

 we expected them to make good bundobust (arrange- 

 ments) for speedy progress ; so that a considerable 

 distance was accomplished during the night. 



Awaking after a rather cold night and a hard one, 

 for it was our first on a wooden floor, we found the 

 men still towing and the sky threatening rain. The 

 canal was winding through low country, where great 

 herds of cattle grazed in all directions, toward the 

 mountains at the head of the valley, where the Sind 

 River comes in. About noon we reached our first 

 halting-place, a village composed of a few little huts, 

 called Gandarbal, and here we were obliged to spend 

 the night, sending ahead a letter to the tehsildar of 

 the district to have forty coolies ready the next day 

 to take our outfit over the Zogi La Pass. 



The route northward is divided into stages of 

 from twelve to fifteen miles each, as a coolie can 

 travel with his load only this distance in one day. 

 New coolies can usually be secured from the village 

 at the end of each of these stages, or marches as 

 they are called ; but in the crossing of the Zogi La 

 Pass there are no villages large enough to supply 



