THE JOURNEY INTO KASHMIR 133 



Dras at its foot, the Dras River flowing through it 

 and superb snow-mountains all around. Since from 

 here on we could secure fresh coolies at the beginning 

 of each stage, we paid off the thirty-seven who had 

 taken our outfit over the Zogi La eighty cents 

 apiece, with eight cents present, or baksheesh, for 

 the full trip of five days. On figuring up our entire 

 service expenses, I found that for the forty-eight 

 men, two thirds of whom would be dispensed with 

 on reaching our home camp, my share amounted to 

 $2.70 a day. Let one consider that a first-class guide 

 in the Maine woods, at home, is paid at the rate of 

 $5.00 a day. 



The remainder of the journey to our first shooting 

 grounds was to be much less wearisome, since from 

 now on the road led down into the valleys of Baltis- 

 tan, bringing us among a new people and continually 

 unfolding sights and scenes of the greatest interest. 



