190 SPORT AND TRAVEL 



of the Kamri Pass, which I crossed on the following 

 morning, 13,400 feet high ; and though I had no dif- 

 ficulty myself, the ponies became stuck in the snow 

 and were badly delayed. We tiffined at Kamri, a 

 village of fields spread out on the side of the slope 

 down from the pass, and in the afternoon followed 

 the course of the Kishengunga River to Gurais. 



Gurais is in a little valley of its own, shut in by 

 fine limestone cliffs, the village itself being con- 

 structed of two-story log huts, now no longer the 

 miserable windowless low stone hovels of the Baltis, 

 and its broad pastures make a pretty picture. 

 Kadera wished me to camp in the graveyard, it 

 being the only available space near the village ; but 

 this seemed inappropriate, and I selected a spot 

 which, though it necessitated Kadera's walking a 

 little farther to see his friends in the village, pos- 

 sessed attractions for me which the graveyard 

 totally lacked. 



A delightful march on the following day, through 

 a deep wooded gorge opening into a forest of great 

 pines, brought us to a bungalow on the Burzil River 

 known as Gorai. I met two other sahibs just before 

 reaching it, and enjoyed a pleasant hour's chat with 

 them at their tiffin by the roadside, which one ap- 

 preciates when one has seen so few white men for so 

 long a time. On the 2Qth the road led over the last 



