KASHMIR TO CHINA 205 



there, and finding the contents of their baggage com- 

 pletely ruined, indulged in an expression of their 

 feelings, compared to which the flood itself must 

 have been a mere trifle. 



Perry fortunately arrived while I was there, for 

 having already secured three red bear, he was will- 

 ing to give up his black bear shooting in order to 

 accompany me to the plains. The hotel was crowded 

 with sportsmen entering or leaving Kashmir, chiefly 

 British army officers on leave of absence from their 

 posts down below ; and though we sat down to table 

 thirteen in number on the thirteenth day of the 

 month, the tales of good sport in the highlands went 

 none the less merrily forward. 



For five days we were busy shopping, buying 

 shawls, embroideries, and many other things of 

 native manufacture for presents at home. For the 

 former we dealt mainly with Bahar Shah, though 

 purchasing various shawls from Sammad Shah and 

 Mahmed Jan as well ; Lussoo supplied our brass 

 ware, Jubbar Khan our carved wood. The sign of 

 "Suffering Moses," famous for decades, still swings 

 from a little shop on the River Jhelum, within 

 which Mr. Sufdermogul continues to carry on the 

 successful trade which some English tourist's hap- 

 pily inspired suggestion for a sign first brought to 

 his now well-known door. 



