206 SPORT AND TRAVEL 



One morning Bahar Shah entertained us at a 

 Kashmir breakfast, and on the following day Lus- 

 soo, the brass-work man, gave us a Persian tiffin, 

 the most noteworthy characteristic of which we 

 discovered just in time to avert fatal consequences, 

 namely, that the succession of courses was to 

 continue until we gave word to stop. After that 

 they began to serve the sweets, which proved to be 

 quite the most important and voluminous section of 

 the whole menu. 



During this time we kept a small kishti, very light 

 and fast, with four paddlers, which enabled us to 

 move from place to place over the river and its ad- 

 jacent canals with great and delightful rapidity. 



Old Sultana, the taxidermist, proved most satis- 

 factory in his curing of our ibex and markhor heads 

 and skins, which had been previously sent him ; but 

 I unfortunately permitted him also to mount the 

 heads of the bear skins, to be used as rugs, which he 

 did so badly that they later had to be taken down 

 and set up a second time in America. The former 

 were taken with us and shipped from Calcutta for 

 mounting by Mr. Rowland Ward in London, and 

 we received them in America some six months later, 

 mounted as only Mr. Ward knows how to mount the 

 game of India. 



It was indeed with great regret that we finally left 



