KASHMIR TO CHINA 207 



Srinagar. There was, however, no time for further 

 delay; Perry had his black buck shooting on the 

 plains still before him, with but a few weeks remain- 

 ing before his final return to America via Suez ; for 

 my part, there was the long journey across India, 

 then a visit to Burma, and the voyage around the 

 Malay Peninsula to China, where prospects of tiger- 

 shooting attracted me strongly, and finally the jour- 

 ney home by Japan, all to be concentrated into the 

 few months which remained at my disposal. 



All the tongas in Srinagar having previously been 

 engaged for Lord Kitchener's arrival, we were 

 obliged instead to take a landau, which, though 

 more comfortable, is a much heavier and slower 

 vehicle. The livery-man, however, had promised 

 for a hundred rupees to get us to Rawal Pindi in 

 three days ; so on the I5th of August, at four o'clock 

 in the morning, having finally paid off our shikaris 

 and coolies with good presents, at which old Kadera 

 got down on his knees and touched our feet, saying 

 he was our servant forever, we started on the long 

 one hundred and ninety-eight mile drive. 



The first night was spent at the Chakothi dak 

 bungalow, and the second at Kohalla, where we pre- 

 viously had stopped on our way in. The third day 

 was about as varied and interesting a one as I have 

 ever experienced. We were aroused at 2.30 A. M., for 



