KASHMIR TO CHINA 215 



they cannot endure the heat of the day while work- 

 ing, I believe that their hours extend only from 

 dawn till nine and from three till dusk in winter; 

 and that in summer the periods are shorter still. 



The Shwe Dagon Pagoda, whose name is com- 

 pounded of the Burmese word for " golden" and 

 Dagon, the ancient name of the city of Rangoon, 

 may rightfully be said to be one of the greatest sights 

 in the world ; its great gilded tower, surmounted 

 by the usual ti, or umbrella, surrounded by little 

 bells which tinkle musically in every breath of wind, 

 rises three hundred and seventy feet from the ground 

 and is the first landmark one sees as one ascends the 

 Irrawaddy to Rangoon ; the vast terrace which lies 

 about its base is always thronged with thousands 

 and thousands of worshippers, bringing their offer- 

 ings of flowers and candles to Buddha from all parts 

 of the world, and chanting their prayers while pros- 

 trate before one of his many images, which in smaller 

 temples and shrines surround the terrace. It is a 

 somewhat unique sight to see all ages of people, 

 from old men to young girls, kneeling in front of 

 one of these enormous and, it must be said, hideous 

 idols, holding bunches of superb lilies in their clasped 

 hands while they bow and pray, all the while puff- 

 ing at their great cheroots, with which not even 

 religion is allowed to interfere. 



