28 SPORT AND TRAVEL PAPERS 



in the distance a welcome sight, for there, where we shall 

 strike it, are the wells, and there is our camping-ground for the 

 night. We arrive earlier than usual to-day, the sun is high, 

 and some shepherds are still busy watering a flock of goats as 

 we reach the well. A beautifully shady spot is chosen on the 

 river-bank, under a large spreading juniper- tree, and places 

 fixed upon for G. and me, for the kitchen, and for our followers. 

 We obtain some milk from the goatherds, simple-minded 

 creatures, who, when offered money, refused it, saying that 

 they had no use for it, and did not know what it was ! These 

 were the first people we had had the pleasure to meet who 

 refused money, and none have we met since, sad to relate. A 

 little dhurra they asked for, their only food besides milk. 



While busy arranging our paraphernalia a small party of Arabs 

 arrived, who, after shaking hands with us and exchanging the 

 customary salutations, asked permission to remain near us for 

 the night, which request was, of course, granted. On their way 

 to a village some distance off, they had been no doubt tempted 

 to stay with us by the display of meat in our camp, a great 

 luxury to them. We constantly remarked the magnificent 

 carriage of these wandering Arabs ; they are as straight as the 

 staff of their own spears, and carry their heads and walk as 

 proudly as very lords of the soil. With the white, sheet-like 

 garment fastened round their loins, and gracefully thrown over 

 the shoulders; the shield hanging over their back; the richer 

 carrying a large cross-handled broadsword, the wooden scabbard 

 of which is carefully wound round with long strips of cotton ; 

 others, with the long double-edged spear, but all with the short, 

 thick stick slightly curved at the end, which is held in the right 

 hand, the curved part resting against the right shoulder; often 

 some strings of beads hanging round their bare necks, and 

 generally charms above the elbow, they present a very pictur- 

 esque appearance. These swords are very much valued, and are 

 handed down as heirlooms from father to son. Some are said to 

 be centuries old, able easy to cut through a rifle barrel, and not 

 parted with on any consideration. Most, however, are of later 

 date, and manufactured at, and exported from Sollingen, in 

 Germany, in large quantities. The sticks are about a yard 

 long, some prettily veined, and all highly polished by use. 

 They are made of the sacred " beshem " wood, sacred because 



