48 SPORT AND TRAVEL PAPERS 



with here and there some giant, many-armed, candelabra-like 

 cactus, or large circular piles of white stones marking the 

 graves of sheikhs. These dome-shaped mounds are in very 

 conspicuous positions on the hill slopes. As we approach 

 the capital of the Bogos province, formerly Ahyssinian but 

 now Egyptian, the road becomes more lively; we meet many 

 boys and girls staggering along under enormous ghirbas filled 

 with water, very severely trying their strength apparently ; we 

 see donkeys carrying water also, a few camels, a caravan bound 

 for Massowah with matting ; we pass several sheikhs' graves by 

 the roadside, ornamented with white sparkling quartz, and red 

 and white flags gaily fluttering in the breeze ; and then sud- 

 denly the town lies before us, surrounded on all sides by high 

 mountains, and overlooked also and guarded by its small but 

 apparently strong hill fort. Our road to the market-place, 

 where we hope to meet G. and the dragoman, passes close 

 under it and then runs between rows of beehive-like reed huts, 

 most of which seem occupied by soldiers, who, scattered about 

 in groups, show a good deal of interest in our caravan. Our 

 envoys have already procured us an empty house belonging to 

 a Greek merchant, consisting of a room and a kitchen, with a 

 fenced-in courtyard for our camels attached. So we soon unload 

 and make ourselves at home, once more under a roof. G. and 

 Suleiman, who, in the absence of the governor had gone to 

 the commandant, had there had their patience severely tried, 

 patience the most important necessity for Eastern travel 

 for, on entering the house this high functionary was discovered 

 busy washing his feet, after which he put on no less than three 

 pairs of stockings, prayers, lasting exactly twenty minutes, 

 following. Although highly edified, no doubt, by this interest- 

 ing glimpse of everyday life at Keren, the visitors were greatly 

 pleased when at last, the devotions over, coffee was ordered, 

 without which nothing can be settled and nothing can be done. 

 While regretting greatly that the " palace " was too full for our 

 accommodation, he sent G. down to a Greek merchant, and the 

 result was a house to ourselves looking out on to the most 

 fashionable part of the capital, the market-place. Standing 

 at the door of our one-roomed, one-storied, flat-roofed, window- 

 less house, we obtain a very good idea of the two townlets which 

 make up what is, since the Egyptians became masters here 



