ROADSIDE SKETCHES IN GUATEMALA 99 



coast region far out to the ocean beyond. Although chilly in the 

 early morning, owing mainly to the heavy dew, it soon became 

 hot, and very glad we were, after six hours' riding, to halt for 

 breakfast and to unload our mules at the "cabildo" police hut 

 of a small village. What a view there was from here ! Behind 

 us the forest through which we had just passed, before us at 

 least four magnificent volcanoes raising their lofty crests far 

 above the grand Cordilleras, and green foliage everywhere as 

 far as the eye could reach, beautifully shaded among the deeper 

 valleys and passes of the mountains. The village butcher's wife 

 prepared an excellent meal for us hungry travellers, to which we 

 did ample justice, surrounded by various remains of a lately- 

 slaughtered sheep, set off by garlands of doubtful-looking 

 sausages. The house, like all others, was constructed of mud- 

 bricks (adobe) and thatched with plantain leaves. In one corner 

 the butcher was stirring with a large stick a stew simmering 

 over the fire, and another was taken up by pictures of the Virgin 

 and of several saints ; a third contained the sleeping accommo- 

 dation for the family, while in the fourth customers were 

 attended to. There was no place here to have our usual noon- 

 day rest, the hut was too uncomfortable, and no shelter to be 

 got elsewhere ; so when man and beast had been fed we made 

 another start, but the sun was so hot that after eight miles we 

 could do no more, and had already determined to camp out on 

 the first suitable spot, when we discovered a solitary hut in the 

 forest, occupied by some Indians, who promised us " saccate " 

 for the mules and a place under a shed for our baggage. It was 

 delightful in the shade of the glorious trees, and still more 

 delightful in the cool, swiftly-running stream close by, most 

 enjoyable after our hot and dusty ride. Then followed dinner 

 in the hut, which was occupied by three families, each apparently 

 accommodated in a separate corner. Two of the wives, evidently 

 sisters, were very pretty, especially the younger one, who at- 

 tended to our wants. They all wore the national dress, an 

 orange and red very tightly fitting petticoat, a white loose 

 chemise, strings of blue beads round the neck, and green ribbons 

 plaited into the two long curls hanging down to the waist. The 

 meal provided consisted of boiled eggs stuck into little lumps of 

 tortilla paste, a basin of black beans, some cheese, and a small 

 milk-jug full of black coffee, which the pretty lady stirred for us 



