100 SPORT AND TRAVEL PAPERS 



with an iron skewer ; of course, knives, forks, and spoons were 

 things unknown. The three families took the greatest interest 

 in our doings, laughing and chatting, and showing their white 

 teeth all the time, a happy, contented party. There were several 

 children about, the youngest swinging in a hammock. Five 

 half-starved, hungry-looking dogs, and one cat, watched us wist- 

 fully during our repast, and I don't know how many fowls were 

 roosting among the bamboo rafters overhead. How everybody 

 stowed away in the hut seemed a puzzle, for nearly one-third 

 of the space was taken up by the fireplace. We did not stay 

 to see the problem solved, but took up our quarters under the 

 shed, where sleep at last put an end to an unsuccessful battle 

 with the mosquitoes. Our young hostess alone was up to give 

 us coffee at three the next morning, the others being contained, 

 I suppose, in the several bundles lying about in various corners 

 of the hut. After this we made a long journey into the colder 

 regions, but finally paid a visit to the lagoon country, a series 

 of lakes surrounded by damp forests near the sea, and but little 

 above its level. It was very hot here, though that was bear- 

 able ; but the sandflies and mosquitoes were not, and they fairly 

 drove us away on the second day of our stay. They were terrible, 

 and never left us alone for one moment ; but the former, the 

 tiny, almost invisible pests, fully deserved the prize. At work 

 all day long, they never ceased their attacks on all exposed 

 places at the same time, while the mosquitoes commenced with 

 a will only about sunset, when one could always retire for shelter 

 under the curtain and thus more or less defy them. It is diffi- 

 cult to understand why these curses exist, and on what they live 

 when no unfortunate biped is about to feed them with his blood. 

 We took up our quarters under a large tree overlooking a 

 lake, in the centre of which was an island inhabited by some 

 Indians, whose occupation consisted in horse-breeding, and fish, 

 duck, and turtle curing. They ferried themselves across to 

 their island home in canoes hollowed out of the trunk of a 

 tree, spearing fish, with which the lakes abounded, as they went, 

 by means of long three-pronged spears. They were well-built, 

 fine-looking men, splendid swimmers, and their dress was 

 conspicuous only by its absence. Ducks they shot, tortoises 

 they caught, dried, and smoked, afterwards to be sent to the 

 nearest market. This lagoon country is a perfect paradise for 



