ROADSIDE SKETCHES IN GUATEMALA 113 



kerchief round the head, surmounted again by a broad-brimmed 

 straw hat. On arrival in the early morning they deposited their 

 heavy burdens in the Plaza, and then, aided by their wives, 

 made a fire ; upon it was put the earthenware cooking pot, con- 

 taining water, chillies, a small piece of meat perhaps, a fish, or 

 some fat only ; a few tortillas which they brought with them are 

 warmed up, and a plantain is roasted, and thus they make their 

 simple meal. The loads which these men carry upon their backs 

 supported by a band from the forehead are heavy indeed ; the 

 flat, square box is full of various goods, and attached to it out- 

 side hangs the mat whereon they sleep, various cooking pots, 

 calabashes of different shapes, perhaps a bunch of onions, &c. 

 After the morning meal the wares are displayed for sale ; earthen- 

 ware goods, raw wool, clothing, large quantities of onions, 

 bananas, &c. Having disposed of what was brought, various 

 purchases are made, generally of fruit or vegetables, the chief 

 productions of this fertile valley, and presently men and women 

 toil back to their villages, struggling under the heavy loads, up 

 and down the steep and stony roads. Dried ducks, and fish and 

 small crabs from the lake, skewered upon sticks, are also exported 

 from here, as they are considered delicacies further inland. Next 

 morning, during our short march, nearly always up-hill, to 

 Solala, the capital of a district, we passed crowds of these men 

 and women laden with goods for the market there. Nearly all 

 were wrapped up in a rough jacket, for, owing to the altitude 

 about 7,000 feet and a very piercing wind, it was extremely 

 cold ; we passed others carrying enormous earthenware pots and 

 jars upon their backs, bound from the Altos to the lower country. 

 The important market in the Plaza was well attended and very 

 interesting. The usual things were being sold ; one side was 

 set aside for the sale of raw wool, and rough clothing made of 

 it, black or white, the colours of the highland sheep. An 

 immense variety of wares was displayed for sale, but a good deal 

 of bartering went on also, eggs, tortillas, &c., being exchanged 

 for other things. We noticed some very pretty pale blue hui- 

 peels embroidered in crimson, some chocolate and blue shawls, 

 and a boy carrying about in a box a small image of the Virgin 

 embowered in gaudy flowers, which he offered to the market 

 women to kiss or only to touch, they in return presenting him 

 with some small gift from their store. Being so high we enjoyed 



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