ROADSIDE SKETCHES IN GUATEMALA 115 



here; also the Pacific far away in the distance. At last, on 

 turning the corner, we suddenly beheld our goal many hundred 

 feet below us, a large town of tiled houses, with a very white 

 church, lying in an extensive plain, now bare and yellow, for the 

 corn had long since been cut and nothing but the yellow stumps 

 remained. It would be impossible to ride down a steeper road 

 than that which took us zig-zag down the mountain-side ; the 

 slightest mistake of a mule would have precipitated him and his 

 load many hundred feet down into the valley. The loose stones 

 and slippery ground made the trip somewhat trying, especially 

 when one's gallant charger was afflicted with lameness in the 

 forefeet ; but nothing happened, and presently we rode through 

 the gate of the Hotel de la Concordia. The inn looked peaceable 

 enough then, but how laughable its name seemed to us next 

 morning ! The courtyard was prettily decorated with flowers, 

 the food fair, our room looked comfortable, and we looked 

 forward to a good night's rest, but we were sadly disappointed. 

 The town is very regularly laid out in square blocks of low 

 houses ; it has the usual Plaza and church fitted up with the 

 usual ghastly figures, a cabildo, fountains with running water 

 everywhere, and a well-to-do appearance altogether. Several 

 male and female friends were apparently staying with the 

 landlady of our hotel, and until evening they all wandered 

 about in the garden seemingly the best of friends. After 

 dinner, driven in by the cold, we retired to roost, but not to 

 sleep ; for hardly had we settled ourselves among the blankets, 

 when sounds of the marimba began to be heard in the next 

 room. It was a pleasure to listen to it, so beautifully was it 

 played, so pretty were the airs, so varied the repertory. But 

 when it had continued without intermission for more than an 

 hour, we thought it time for all good people to be in bed ; not 

 so, however, the performers and their immediate audience ; the 

 playing went on and on with ever increasing energy, often 

 accompanied by loud laughter, and our hosts were evidently 

 bent on making a night of it. A guitar had next to do duty, to 

 give the marimba a well-earned rest, but then, refreshed, the 

 players set to work again. The fun waxed fast and furious, 

 and sleep was totally out of the question ; strong drink was 

 doing its work, yet the marimba played on, and the Marseillaise 

 was sung con expressione. We were disgusted, tired yet sleepless, 



