118 SPORT AND TRAVEL PAPERS 



"frescas" prepared with sugar, flour, and some fruit juice. These 

 are displayed for sale in most roadside shops and are very 

 refreshing. So is also, and nourishing besides, a drink called 

 tiste, found in the lower country, where the cacao-tree grows, 

 made of parched maize flour, sugar, cinnamon, and cocoa mixed 

 with water. This is very palatable at the end of a hot and 

 dusty ride. The highest point we reached in Guatemala was 

 the summit of the volcano of Agua, in the crater of which we 

 slept at the respectable height of 13,570 feet or 14,000 feet, 

 according to different measurements. The Jefe Politico, the 

 governor of Antigua, to whom we had a letter, kindly sent a 

 messenger to the Indian village of St. Maria, 2,000 feet above 

 the town, situated on the slope of the mountain, with orders to 

 provide carriers for us. These we found ready on our arrival, so 

 nothing remained to be done but to settle the price, arrange the 

 loads, and provide ourselves with water for the journey. While 

 thus employed we were regaled with lemonade in the cabildo, 

 where the alcalde was wont to dispense justice under a crimson 

 canopy, emblazoned with the arms of Guatemala a greyish 

 white scroll, with the words " Libertad, September 15, 1824," 

 surmounted by a quezal in proper colours ; Eemington rifles and 

 swords crossed underneath the scroll and resting upon a double 

 laurel wreath, the whole on a dark blue field. Our four sturdy 

 Indian carriers were soon ready and laden with their own thick 

 clothing, our blankets, great-coats, provisions and earthen- 

 ware jars full of water, and the road being practicable, we 

 rode our horses up the mountain- side until it became too 

 steep. Then the climb commenced through the forest, where 

 here and there the ground had been cleared and some 

 potatoes planted. Beyond the forest the ascent became 

 terribly steep and slippery on account of the long yellow 

 grass, and the air being very rarefied, breathing was very 

 difficult. One of the party, I won't say who, very nearly gave 

 it up ; it was awful work scrambling up on all-fours, and every 

 moment out of breath, especially when it became dark, except 

 for the millions of stars which sparkled in the heavens. At 

 last, when almost completely exhausted, we stood upon the edge 

 of the crater, and then descended into the wide, deep basin of what 

 was once a lake, until it burst its banks to sweep away the 

 first capital of Guatemala. We found a hut of logs and branches 



