ROADSIDE SKETCHES IN GUATEMALA 119 



here, which, in the absence of anything else to burn, had to 

 provide us with the materials for a fire, which was soon in full 

 blaze, we sitting as closely as possible round it, for it was 

 terribly cold. The hot coffee, eggs, and potted meats warmed 

 and refreshed the inner man, and then, haying placed fresh logs 

 upon the fire, we wrapped our blankets round us and lay down 

 upon the ground, sheltered as much as possible from the annoy- 

 ing draughts which whistled through the skeleton walls of the 

 hut. We were in an immense circular cauldron, its extent not 

 to be judged in the dim light, but its rim distinctly defined by 

 the brilliant stars above, among which a beautiful comet sparkled 

 in the pure atmosphere. Gazing upon the glorious lights of 

 heaven we at last went to sleep in our lofty lodging, but awoke 

 just before dawn cold and shivering. A run to warm us, more 

 hot coffee, and then a climb to the crater's edge. As the sun 

 rose a marvellous panorama developed itself below us; cities, 

 villages, mountains, fields, lakes, the whole country lay spread 

 out like upon a map, at first dimly then clearly defined in 

 every particular, as the sun's rays dispersed the mist which until 

 then had lain like a white blanket upon the mountain slopes, 

 in the valleys, over lakes and rivers. On one side the high 

 plateau upon which stand Antigua and the new capital, on 

 the other the dense tropical forest and the Pacific beyond ; the 

 volcanoes of San Salvador were clearly visible to the south, those 

 of Atitlan and Quezaltenango to the north. We only now saw 

 the full extent of the crater wherein we had passed the night, 

 the breach in its side made centuries ago by the water on its 

 way to deal death and destruction to Guatemela vieja, and the 

 deep channels it had then cut down the mountain-side. Close 

 by rose Fuego, with its ragged crater emitting little puffs of 

 smoke every now and then the destroyer of the city whence 

 we had just come and to which we soon afterwards returned. 



