A RIDE FROM THE PACIFIC TO MEXICO CITY 121 



with its deep-blue water and golden sandy shore, watched over 

 by the old castle, which is again overlooked by bold mountains 

 closing in all round! It was burning hot outside, but cool 

 within the airy rooms of the hotel, which, I fear, are not much 

 frequented by visitors, as but few people ever land here, most 

 travellers to the city of Mexico choosing another route, and 

 there is almost no trade. Our wooden bed chamber, with 

 glassless windows, was very airy ; at night a strong wind blew 

 from the mountains to the sea, taking our room en route, and, 

 unless secured, the sheets, our only covering, would not have 

 remained a covering very long. We were lucky enough soon 

 after arrival to hear of a muleteer willing to take us and 

 our belongings to the city, or rather to the terminus of a railway 

 which extends a short distance from the capital, and which 

 is intended eventually to complete the line connecting the 

 Pacific with the Atlantic. It already calls itself the "Inter- 

 oceanic " railway, but whether it will ever really deserve that 

 name is extremely doubtful. At present its terminus, Yautepec, 

 is distant 315 miles (by road) from the Pacific, and the 

 intervening country appears utterly impracticable. The can- 

 didate for our patronage soon presented himself, and was 

 vouched for by the United States Consul, who very kindly 

 interested himself in our behalf; the man had just brought 

 a Government official down from the city, and was the proud 

 possessor of three horses. Augustin Lopez was soon engaged, 

 on condition that he produced four serviceable beasts, mules 

 or horses, two for us to ride, two for the baggage. He proved 

 himself a hardworking, most willing and obliging arriero 

 very proud of his profession and most anxious to deliver us at 

 our destination on a certain day, so as not to compromise 

 the proud name he had earned of always doing the journey 

 as rapidly as possible. His repute remained untarnished ; 

 he kept us up to time, made us travel as he wished, and 

 eventually delivered us safe and sound in Mexico at the 

 hour fixed, but a good many pounds lighter than when we 

 left Acapulco. His terms were soon agreed to ; twenty-two 

 Mexican dollars we were to give for each animal, he to feed 

 them on the road and to supply saddles, &c. ; to start in 

 forty-eight hours. Not very dear, when the terrible state of 

 the road over 315 miles of most mountainous country is 



