124 SPORT AND TRAVEL PAPERS 



track lay over the most terribly stony country, up steep hills, 

 often merely bare and slippery rock, then down again, stumbling 

 among loose boulders, or struggling up places where the un- 

 fortunate animals had to climb like cats. Though we enjoyed 

 some magnificent views among this sea of mountains, which 

 rises steadily from the coast in ever loftier chains until we 

 approach the plateau, 8,000 feet high, whereon stands the 

 capital, the beauty of the scenery generally was marred by 

 the nakedness and apparent barrenness of the country. The 

 villages looked poor and were few and far between. There 

 was but little cultivated land besides the few patches of maize 

 attached to every house. 



"We arrived at 11.30 at Tierra Colorado, a very neat village, 

 the white-washed adobe houses of which are built round a large 

 open square. Here some pork was put before us, which we 

 could not face after our late studies on the life of the village 

 pig; but there were also eggs and plantains. The people 

 seemed very well to do. They were clad in the cleanest white 

 jackets and loose trousers ; but apparently cultivated nothing 

 but maize. Our afternoon march to Dos Caminos was short, 

 but more enjoyable than the others. The road was better, 

 the scenery pretty in a deep valley where everything was green, 

 and enlivened by birds, butterflies, and bronze-coloured lizards, 

 which sparkled in the sun as they lay on the burning rocks. 

 The plain was covered with mimosa-trees, umbrella- shaped, 

 like those in the Soudan ; on the hillsides grew giant cacti, 

 in appearance like huge candelabra. Though our landlady 

 killed one of her toughest hens for our repast, we would gladly 

 have done without her own sweet company, for when not 

 smoking her cigar swinging about in a hammock close to us, 

 she was smoking her cigarette leaning over the table among 

 our dishes, in still closer proximity. We sought our hammocks, 

 slung outside, as soon as possible, and slept well in spite of 

 the howling of dogs, the squealing pigs, the crowing cocks, 

 the bleating goats, the lowing cows, and calling turkeys. 

 What a farmyard the street was ! Off at 4 a.m. again, we 

 soon after crossed a ridge, and then an extensive valley, 

 surrounded on every side by mountains ; a few houses were 

 to be seen here and there, with the usual maize fields. 



The mist in the early morning was lying in dense masses 



