CHRISTMAS-TIME IN FOUR CONTINENTS 197 



III. AMERICA. 



The night of December 23, 1883, proved a trying time for 

 those on board the Royal Mail steamer Moselle, for the good 

 ship tumbled about terribly on the Caribbean Sea to anger 

 roused by a strong north-east wind which had been blowing 

 steadily for some days. Poor Moselle! Since then she has 

 been wrecked and now lies in peace below the waters undis- 

 turbed by wind or weather. 



Coming from Jamaica, we carried a large number of coolies 

 on their way to labour at the Panama Canal. Deck passengers, 

 closely packed and railed off in the forepart of the ship, they were 

 indeed objects for pity, for not only did Neptune exact his tribute 

 in full, but they were wet to the skin from spray and blue sea 

 which splashed frequently on board. The journey, however, 

 was then nearly over, for at ten next morning we arrived along- 

 side the wharf of Colon. 



Our first impression of Aspinwall was not a favourable one, 

 nor indeed did it change for the better with further experience. 

 Everything was dirty and foul, especially the yellow sea as it 

 washed against the filthy shore and filthier wharf, whereon stood 

 groups of ragged negro coolies waiting for the agent to send 

 them in batches of ten to unload the vessel. The wooden 

 houses near the landing-place were built on piles over evil- 

 smelling swamps, the receptacles of every variety of refuse from 

 the habitations above ; from the black mire rose large bubbles 

 of foul gases, and in it wallowed pigs and land tortoises, the 

 only scavengers of Colon. Although nose and eye were 

 everywhere met by evil smells and filthy refuse, the city was 

 very much en fete at this Christmas-time, and crowds of people 

 in their Sunday best had come to spend the hard-earned dollars 

 and celebrate to the full the holiday in this the nearest town to 

 the canal. And what a crowd ! All the Central and South 

 American Republics and the adjoining islands were here repre- 

 sented by the worst riff-raff from each, the whole collected by 

 offers of high wages for work on the deadly track of the Panama 

 Canal. 



All had come now with the full intention to spend their money 

 gained by hardest toil and at constant risk of death among the 



