IN CAMP IN NEW ZEALAND 273 



to bag by my companion two years ago on the very lightest 

 tackle. The plain is of very great extent, about 800 feet above 

 sea-level, mostly flat but terraced and hilly here and there, the 

 whole densely covered with low manuka scrub, coarse tussock 

 grass, moss and lichen. In cloudy weather and from a dis- 

 tance the country in its general appearance greatly resembles 

 a moor in Scotland in its purple-brown colouring, manuka being, 

 when not covered with white blossom, very like heather, although 

 higher and more grey-green on close inspection. The soil is 

 very poor, almost entirely pumice, for we are in the Roturua- 

 Tarawera volcanic district, with but a very thin layer of mould 

 in which nothing but scrub and coarse grass will grow. The 

 scenery is desolate and wild, yet very picturesque in its desola- 

 tion. On clear days the beautiful snow-clad mountain Ruapehu, 

 with Tongariro and Ngaurahoe, "the smoking one," were 

 clearly visible in the far distance, and opposite to them on the 

 horizon rose Tarawera, the destroyer of the pink and white 

 terraces ; between the two to the north Mount Taupo. 



The river, born near the first-named volcano, runs a very 

 zigzag course through the plain and eventually enters the Bay 

 of Plenty on the east coast. Comparatively a small and narrow 

 river near our camp, it was not by any means always confined 

 to its present bed ; it overran, no doubt, the plain to a very great 

 extent, and its rushing waters then cut deeply into and through 

 any hill which barred the way, thus leaving those 20 or 30 feet 

 perpendicular cuttings which are seen in so many places. From 

 the tops of these many a fine fish may be watched lying in the 

 clear water below, immovable but for a slight motion of the 

 tail, he is very shy and will dart away should he catch the 

 merest glimpse of the observer, safe though he is entirely out 

 of reach of hook and fly. 



We, Mr. C. and I, have come to the river for trout fishing, 

 and brought with us a Maori boy Poki to look after the 

 horses, and last, but not least, " Rags," a fox terrier. Mr. C. 

 is the most expert fisherman, and very keen, knowing well every 

 inch of the river and the haunt of every big fish. He has always 

 taken the greatest interest in the Rangitaiki ; was instrumental 

 in stocking it twelve years ago, and under his care it flourishes 

 exceedingly. The fish have done marvellously well, and afford 

 in the clear water the very best of sport. As this part of the 



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