74 



HORTICULTURE FOR SCHOOLS 



FIG. 43. Making the cross- 

 cut of the "T" with a rolling 

 motion of the knife. 



of the stock, some budders prefer to take out the wood, leaving 

 only the bark, but this is unnecessary except in a few special 

 cases. 



As the knife comes up through the bark, the top portion 

 of the bud is grasped between the 

 thumb and the knife-blade so as to 

 be in position (Fig. 44) to be placed 

 immediately in the "T" cut in the 

 stock. The bud is inserted and 

 pushed down with the thumb (Fig. 

 45) or with the point of the knife- 

 blade. The tip or lower end of the 

 shield should be pushed a little way 

 below the vertical cut. The top 

 should not come above the cross- 

 cut (Fig. 46) because any portion 

 projecting could not unite with the stock and would prob- 

 ably cause all of the bud to dry out 

 and die. With a little practice, the 

 shield can be cut just the correct 

 length, but if it should be too long 

 the top can be cut off with the knife 

 after the bud is in place. 



115. Tying. The bud must 

 be tied firmly in order that the 

 two cambium layers may be held 

 closely together and the bud 

 prevented from drying out. Various 

 materials have been utilized for 

 tying, but string is to be preferred, 



especially in arid climates. Raffia (consisting of fibers of a 

 large palm) is also used. When raffia is employed, it should 

 be soaked for a number of hours and tied while wet. Fig. 47 

 will make clear the manner of tying. With string three 

 wraps are usually made below the bud and four above it. The 



