126 HORTICULTURE FOR SCHOOLS 



individual should be wholly free from its neighbors so as to 

 secure light. 



204. Preparing the trees for planting. When taken from 

 the place where they are "heeled-in," the trees can be hauled 

 to the field in barrels containing water and planted at once. 

 If they are not to be set immediately, it is well to place the 

 roots in mud. It is important to keep the roots from drying 

 out, otherwise the rootlets do not form readily. 



205. Trimming the roots. Any broken or damaged 

 roots should be trimmed to remove the injured part, and 

 roots which are too long should be cut back. If roots are 

 too thick or interfere with each other, they may be thinned 

 out. In cutting off, a clean cut from the underside is 

 desirable. 



206. Planting-board. The use of the planting-board is 

 convenient. Plate III shows a good one. It consists of a 

 six-inch board, four to six feet long, with a notch at each 

 end and one in the middle. The middle notch is placed 

 against the stake where the tree is to be, stakes are driven 

 in the notches at the ends of the board, and the board is 

 removed. The middle stake can then be taken out in dig- 

 ging the hole. When the tree is to be set, the planting-board 

 is placed with the notches at its ends against the two stakes, 

 the tree is held in position at the center notch, and the hole is 

 filled. 



207. Planting the tree. The hole should be of ample size 

 to accommodate the root system, and should be dug only a 

 short time before the tree is to be planted lest it dry out too 

 much. With the planting-board in place, and the tree in 

 position in the middle notch, the soil is worked in around the 

 roots with the hands, while at the same time the tree is gently 

 shaken up and down. Care should be taken to get the soil 

 well worked in among and under the roots. The soil should 

 be tramped firmly down after the roots are covered, and 

 should be packed again after the hole is filled up. The tree 



