ORCHARD MANAGEMENT 127 



should be set at the same depth at which it grew in the 

 nursery. If planted much deeper, especially in heavy soils, 

 it is likely to die in the first season. 



208. Pruning the top. After the tree has 

 been set out, it is customary to cut the top to 

 a whip from eighteen to twenty-four inches high 

 (Fig. 88), although if there are branches so 

 placed as to form a proper head to the tree, 

 they may be left. 



209. The use of fertilizers. No stable ma- 

 nure or fertilizer of any sort should be put in the 

 hole with the young tree. Manure placed in the 

 soil at the time trees are planted not only pre- 

 vents soil particles from coming in contact with 

 the roots, but causes heating of the soil and 

 injury to the roots. If fertilizers are to be used 

 at all, they should be applied to the land the 

 year before the planting, or sometime afterwards. 

 Manure as a mulch about the tree is beneficial, _ 



riG. oo. ohow- 



if it does not touch the trunk. It can be added ing tree cut 



back to whip 



to the surface of the soil immediately after the after P i ant- 

 ing. 



tree is planted. 



210. Care of the trees the first year. There must be an 

 abundance of moisture in the soil for the growth of the young 

 tree. If the supply is scanty, water may be added artificially. 

 Cultivation is necessary to keep down weeds and prevent 

 surface evaporation. Insects must be destroyed if present, 

 and fungous diseases may require attention. 



211. Tillage of bearing orchards. Tillage is necessary in 

 the orchard to increase the water-holding capacity of the soil, 

 to conserve the water supply, to assist chemical activities, 

 to destroy weeds, and to break up the breeding places of 

 insects. It is usually advisable to plow or disk deeply either 

 in the fall or early in the spring so that the soil can readily 

 absorb rains. During the summer frequent cultivation is 



