136 



HORTICULTURE FOR SCHOOLS 



well be headed back, however, to keep them within bounds 

 and to give proper shape to the tree. 



225. Summer pruning. Although pruning is usually done 



in the dormant season, it is sometimes 

 practiced during the growing season in 

 summer to accomplish certain special 

 purposes. Summer pruning results in a 

 shock to the tree, and the later in the 

 period of most active growth it is done 

 the greater is the shock. For this reason 

 summer pruning is not generally advisa- 

 ble, although it is sometimes of value 

 in checking a too exuberant wood 

 growth. The main argument for summer 

 pruning is that it conduces to the pro- 

 duction of more highly colored fruit by 

 admitting to the branches more than the 

 usual amount of sunlight. 



226. Pruning tools. Some good pruning saws and shears 

 are illustrated in Figs. 92-97. Pruning tools must be strong 

 and sharp. Long-handled 



shears should have a rather 



thin blade, a bar curved so 



as to hold the branch firmly 



while cutting, and should be 



so constructed that the blade has a slight "draw cut" as 



the handles are closed. 



227. Making the cuts. In pruning to a bud, the branch 

 is cut off a short distance above the bud. In removing a side 

 branch or a lateral, the cut should be made as close to the 

 main branch as possible. By selecting a bud pointing in the 

 right direction, branches may be so cut that the growth from 

 the bud will take place in any direction desired. In this 

 manner it is possible to spread close-growing trees, and to 

 close up wide-spreading trees. In cutting off a branch to a 



FIG. 91. The apple 

 tree in Fig. 90 aft- 

 er pruning. 



FIG. 92. Pruning saw. 



