THE KADOTA FIG 



of your tree, and every inch of new growth on every limb brings a new leaf, 

 and every leaf on new wood harbors a fig which will ripen that season; so 

 force the size and growth of your trees whenever possible. 



All soils do not require the irrigation I give to my land, and each planter 

 can use judgment according to his conditions. In the growing season the 

 terminal bud should be kept unfolding into a new leaf. When that opera- 

 tion ceases, water is needed. 



In my orchard of adobe land I irrigate late in April, or twice in May, and 

 twice in July after the June crop is gathered, and again between crops in 

 August and September if time permits. I force the growth and tonnage. 



Pruning 



By cutting back a newly planted fig tree to 1 or 12 inches from the 

 ground you induce a low dense growth near the ground that, as the tree ages, 

 permits of an easy and cheap method of gathering the fruit as above stated, and 

 you also cause the trunk or body of the tree to be at all times protected from 

 the elements, both winter and summer, and you also provide a dense shade 

 conserving the moisture inherently in the soil or added by irrigation. All varie- 

 ties of figs are improved by this method of pruning, and invariably a heavier 

 tonnage of fruit is thus secured. 



For gathering figs ripened on the tree and fallen, the extremely low 

 branches may be removed to permit the small boy to rustle about under the 

 branches. But always bear in mind that our improving system of growing 

 orchards is getting us each year farther away from the old California system 

 of driving a six-horse team under the branches of our trees, and we are also 

 learning that intensive cultivation immediately under a fig tree is not essential 

 to growth or fruit. 



The best bearing old fig tree we know anything of is one in door-yard, 

 fence corner or on ditch bank, where horse, teams or tractors never go. 



The time is rapidly coming when all varieties of figs desired for drying 

 will be picked fresh from the tree, dehydrated, and otherwise handled in a 

 manner to cause California dried figs to become famed the world over. That 

 desired end will not be accomplished with our present methods. In connection 

 with that future prospect the pruning of all varieties of figs must be practiced 

 along the lines now accepted as the correct method for pruning the Kadola. 

 After planting cut tree back to 1 or 12 inches. 



The second season shorten all growth to 1 6 or 18 inches and cut center 

 out. Third season shorten all growths to 1 2 or 18 inches. 



The fourth season the growth of many branches should be cut back to 

 16 or 18 inches, as in previous seasons, with this difference: You are now 

 expecting to gather a considerable tonnage of fruit, and the branches which 

 have not made a growth to exceed 20 or 22 inches should not be disturbed 

 this season but should be permitted to remain to give you your June crop, 

 and may be shortened next season to proper length, and the greater growths 

 on the tree should all be cut away to within 1 6 or 18 inches of their union 

 with parent branch. In branching they will give you crops later in the season. 



In the season to follow, as the tree increases in size and age, leave all 

 short growths for June fruit, and, unless you can cut away at least 6 inches 

 and retain required length of stub, do not cut. Small slender growths may 



