230 



THE BEE-KEEPERS' REVIEW. 



ing to unite the cups to them. A thick 

 separator cut into strips of '4 or)4 inch 

 makes good slats provided they are '4 inch 

 longer than the inside measurement of the 

 frames used so that they may be slipped 

 into the notches in the end bars. They 

 should be }4 inch wide if a nursery as il- 

 lustrated in last August Review is to be 

 used, otherwise a very narrow strip will 

 answer. 



TANK FOR DIPPING QUEEN-CELLS'. 



The dipping tank is 18 inches long, 2 

 inches wide, and i>^ inches deep; having 

 a flange 3 inches wide, extending from 

 end to end, on each side. These flanges 

 are curved downward to a level with the 

 bottom of the tank, then bent out at 

 right angles and tacked to a table-top 

 made of two 2 x 18-inch '.^oards placed 

 3 inches apart; thus suspending the tank 

 over the opening thus formed. This ar- 

 rangment of flanges, or shields, at the 

 sides conducts the heat out at the ends, 

 and gives a more even temperature at the 

 sides as well as at the bottom of the tank. 

 The table is 19 inches high, which holds 

 the tank exactly X i^^h above the tops of 



*No. I, end of dipping-tank; Nos. 2 and 3, tlmnib- 

 screws for holding in place the ganges that sup- 

 port the dipping stick. These ganges ought to 

 have been shown as slanting from their points 

 clear back to the thiunb-screws, instead of only 

 part way. The lamp, also, ought to have been 

 shown p'ushed farther back and under the cen- 

 ter of the dipping tank. 



the chimneys of the two lamps that are 

 placed on the floor. More satisfactory 

 results can be obtained when two lainps 

 are used. 



The temperature is regulated by turn- 

 ing the lamp wicks up or down. The 

 gauges are of hoop iron; 7 inches long; 14 

 inches apart; 2 J4' inches above the table; 

 and attached to right side of uprights by 

 thumb screws passing through holes 4)4 

 inches from the pointed ends that extend 

 iX inches over the dipping tank. The 

 gauges can be raised or lowered at the 

 points to adjust them to the quantity of 

 wax in the tank, or to level them up if 

 one end of the tank should, for any reason, 

 be higher than the other. By having slots 

 in the standards, the gauges can be slip- 

 ped up or down and kept level; although 

 this is not so great an advantage, as the 

 tilting arrangement, combined with the 

 slant on the stick holder, gives the opera- 

 tor quite complete control of the matter. 

 For instance, if the points are downward, 

 the first dip can be on the point; and each 

 successive one further from it; thus secur- 

 ing the desired variation in depth of dip, 

 as the cups are completed, without carry- 

 ing the cups endwise for that purpose. 



The back ends of the gauges furnish a 

 rack to hang one set of sticks to cool while 

 another is being dipped, if the tempera- 

 ture of the room be such that two sets can 

 be used. 



An additional tank or trough for water 

 should be provided. It should be of 

 sufficient length to admit the slats to 

 which the cups are attached. This can be 

 made of boards, and thoroughly waxed 

 inside. Heat it hot enough to melt wax, 

 and but little need be used. It can be 

 poured in and allowed to touch all parts; 

 being sure no water is with it. 



The wax should be kept just above the 

 melting point, with a little water beneath. 

 The water is a good indicator of the tem- 

 perature, as no bubbling should be allow- 

 ed. The temperature of the wax, as well 

 as that of the water in which the forming 

 sticks are soaked previous to dipping, and 

 as often as a batch of cups is removed, has 

 much to do with the length of time the 



