THE BEE-KEEPRS' REVIEW. 



231 



sticks are allowed to remain in the wax. 

 The object shouUl l)e to j^et smooth cups 

 insiile; and this is more easily accomplish- 

 ed by slini^in^ oiT the sinplus water from 

 the sticks, and allowiuv,' them to go to the 

 desired depth the instant they touch the 

 wax. If not properly done the cups will 

 be ridged inside. The cups should not be 

 dipped into water until finished, as it cau- 

 ses air bubbles, and prevents the uniting 

 of the wax, thus leaving it in layers that 

 will flake off. If they get too cool, be- 

 tween dips, (and the tendency is in this 

 direction ) it can be overcome by allowing 

 them to remain in the wax until warmed 

 up; being careful that it is not overdone, 

 and the cups allowed to melt. 



I believe that Mr. Doolittle, who is usu- 

 ally correct in his observations, has set- 

 tled on a half-inch as being the right depth 

 of cup, but I would not discard a batch if 

 it were a little less and perfect in all other 

 respects. 



To prevent having long necks to the 

 cups, first one side and then the other of 

 the holder should be raised to an elevation 

 of about 45 degrees, and the drops allowed 

 to set on first one side and then the other 

 of the forming stick. If the wax is not too 

 hot the cups will be ready to place on the 

 slats when the fourth dip is made; which 

 should be done quickly enough for them 

 to stick. After this is done, lower the 

 slat into the wax until the wax covers it 

 from end to end; then dip it into the wa- 

 ter to harden the wax sufliciently so that 

 the cups will not twist off when the sticks 

 are removed. This should be done one 

 at a time, by turning it a little back and 

 forth, while it is being slightly withdrawn. 

 Begin with the end ones and go to the 

 middle. 



My sticks are made of heart-cedar, as 

 water is slow to penetrate it, and, conse- 

 quently, there is but little swelling. 



The surplus wax should be removed 

 from the back of the slats, so as to give 

 the cups the appearance of being attached 

 to the comb; but care should be exercised 

 to leave no wood exposed. 



The forming or dipping sticks should 

 be polished, after thev have been used 

 and have become dry, by using very fine 

 or well-worn sand paper. 



If 5-16 of an inch be considered to large 

 the points can be dressed down to the de- 

 sired size. 



We cannot force the bees to build large 

 cells, or rear large queens, by giving ex- 

 tra large cups; as the}- remodel them to 

 suit themselves. The nearer we come to 

 making them the natural size, the more 

 handsome are the cells. 



Creek, N. C. , May 3, 1899. 



HONEY-DEW. 



It May be Produced by Aphides, yet Spread 

 Some Distance from its Source. 



JOHN HANDEI,. 



EDITOR Review — As you devoted so 

 much space in the May Review to a 

 scientific explanation of the source of hon- 

 ey dew, I judge others besides myself 

 are interested in the subject; therefore I 

 will undertake to give some of my views 

 and observations that were not gathered 

 on horse-back, nor borrowed from the 

 library, but from actual contact in the 

 fields and forests. 



When a boy, more that 40 years ago, I 

 questioned the source of this honey dew. 

 I noticed then that it fell only near trees. 

 Having noticed this fact, I embraced 

 every opportunity to find the exact source 

 of the dew. While hunting bees, trying 

 to get a "bee line," when the sun was 

 low, I noticed a fine spray, or mist, sail- 

 ing through the branches of the tree 

 from which bees were gathering this 

 juice. Close and careful investigation 

 convinced me that this spray came from 

 a small insect having a pair of short hose 

 or teats. Although satisfied of this, I 

 have continued investigating the matter 



