174 TRANSACTIONS OF THE AMERICAN INSTITUTE. 



Mr. Carter stated that he saw the trees in September; that they were 

 ri)aded with fruit, not yet ripe; that they were said to produce such crops 

 every year, and were very thrifty. 



Dr. Trimble said that these prunes have been stung by curculio, for here 

 are the marks, but they are able to resist the effect of the stings, and are 

 therefore worthy of attention. I think the melon and pear prunes both bet- 

 ter in quality than this, although this is very good and valuable for its 

 late period of ripening. 



Mr. G. Pardee — I am free to say that I think this is the best prune I ever 

 tasted. 



Mr. S6lon Robinson — I think we ought to be careful not to recommend any- 

 thing that is not worthy, but I am willing to give this prune the highest 

 > commendation. 



After discussion, it was unanimously decided as the opinion of this Club, 

 that the red grape is a well grown and well ripened Catwaba; that the 

 white grape was a sour specimen of the Sweet Water, and that the black 

 grape was a seedling from the Isabella. 



How TO Giiow Plants from Slips. 



Mrs. A. B. Collier writes from Tafton, Grand county, Wis.: "I wish to 

 ask the Club, the report of whose proceedings I read weekly with much 

 pleasure, about the propagation of slips from the oleander tree. Where 

 should they be taken from — that is, what part of the tree ? and also at what 

 time — whether in bloom or out of bloom ? I have tried several ways, but 

 have failed. Also, in regard to the fuschia ? Last fall I took off five slips, 

 set them out, and they all died. Now, if you will please give me any 

 information, it will be gratefully received." 



Mr. R. G. Pardee. — We must always bear in mind that a high tempera- 

 ture is necessary to grow plants from slips. They will seldom strike roots 

 when the thermometer marks below 60 ° , and that is probably why this 

 lady failed, as she says the time was autumn. If slips of the oleander, of 

 the new growth of wood, are set in spring, or very early in the fall, they 

 will probably grow. The best material to start cuttings of any kind in, is 

 clean washed sand. If in the ground, make a hole an inch or two across 

 and fill it with sand. Grape propagators use nothing but sand and water 

 at first. When roots start, the cuttings are changed to other pots filled 

 with rich compost. As to the propagation of English ivy, M^hich another 

 lady inquires about, that is very easy, as it will be found that it throws 

 out rootlets from the vine in creeping up a wall, and if a section of the vine 

 is cut off and set in the ground, these creepers will form roots. There is 

 a magnificent specimen of English ivy upon the stone church in Tenth 

 street, in this city. 



Grafting Grape Vines. 



This question was pretty thoroughly discussed, as it has been several 

 times before, without settling the question whether it is the best way to 

 propagate vines. 



Col. S. D. Harris, of the Ohio Cultivator, who happened to be present, 

 said that he found a very good way to secui'e the early fruiting of slow 



