PROCEEDINGS OF THE FARMERS' CLUB. 315 



proved worthless, but instead of digging up, were grafted and showed 

 fruit the next season. 



First, we come to a Roger, No. 3, next Kelly a seedling. Oporto, Rog- 

 er's Hybrid, No. 4, No. 15, Maxatawny, Miles, Delaware, &c., at least 

 twenty, now strong, bearing vines. Leaving this border, we can walk 

 around the place and see some of the new and rare kinds growing on wild 

 vinos that sprung up accidentally. All these bear about two years sooner 

 than if small vines had been planted, such as we usually get. I have fre- 

 quently been tempted to sell all my wood and quit propagating, but it can- 

 not be done until grafting is better understood. But this is becoming 

 tedious to the reader ; he will want to know how this grafting of the vine 

 is done. Here is my method : 



In the first place, see that you get good, ripe wood, not less than one- 

 quarter inch in diameter ; less may do, but is not certain. 



Keep this damp in sand or moss in a cellar, until the ground opens in 

 the spring (I have performed on February 22d with success) ; remove 

 the earth about three inches deep, select a smooth place, saw off the vine 

 six inches below the surface, unless that comes on the roots, in which case 

 it may be performed near the surface ; pare smooth with a clasp knife, split 

 down the stick in the middle, prepare the graft by putting one inch 

 above the bud and three below, wedge it the same as other grafting, insert 

 as usual, but be careful to have the line between wood and bark of stock 

 and scion to be in an exact line with each other ; the outside must not be a 

 guide, as the bark of the stock will be much thicker than that of the graft. 

 Fit the graft in firmly, and if the stock is still weak, tie around it with 

 twine or loose matting, so as to hold the graft firmly until it has caught 

 hold by growing, by which time the bandage will decay, and not binder 

 the growth of the vine. Never use wire, as I have seen some recom- 

 mend. 



Now, take earth and press it closely and firmly around the joint of graft- 

 ing, but be careful not to move the graft ; fill up to the biid ; leave the 

 point stick out ; over this put loose manure or weeds, or anything that will 

 prevent frost from lifting the graft. out, " or your labor is lost." This will 

 keep out frost, and will prevent your bud from drying out. About the time 

 that vines begin to grow, it will be well to examine occasionally to see if 

 the bud starts. The covering must be kept loose, and, as the graft pro- 

 gresses, taken away entirely. Suckers arising out of the root must be 

 carefully removed, and after times a degree of patience is necessary, as I 

 have known the grafts not to start until July, when they began and grew 

 well, ripening most of their wood. When they start thus late, it is well to 

 pinch the end of the shoots about the 1st of September. My usual success 

 in this kind of grafting is about 90 per cent. 



"Tompkins County King" Apple. 



Dr. Parker called attention to this valuable apple, and hoped that in future 

 lists of apples that promises well this apple would find a place. 



Mr. Wm. S. Carpenter. — We have seen this apple, but I consider that we 

 have a great many apples superior to the Tompkins county King. We all 

 remember when the Northern Spy was introduced, it was thought by soma 



