472 TRANSACTIONS OF THE AMERICAN INSTITUTE. 



edge, the gripe or lug from wliicli a lever projects being disconnected and 

 held still by a stop against which the lever strikes. When the straight 

 side of the hole is worked, the lever or bar which holds the gripe slips off 

 the stop, and the screw feed is disconnected or thrown out of mash. The 

 gripe operated bj' an arm and eccentric fastened upon the main shaft im- 

 mediately turns the disk around a half circle, so that the needles stitch 

 around the eyelet. This done, another stop at the opposite end disconnects 

 the gripe, the screw feed is again brought into operation, but with a re- 

 verse motion, and brings the needles di>wu the opposite side of the hole to 

 the place of beginning. 



The interior of the machine is "vvell shown in the diagram on opposite 

 page, it being exact in all its parts. (See figure II.) Over this is placed 

 an upper case, and when ready for work the machine presents this appear- 

 ance. (See iigure III.) 



A bar or cord of any size required is laid automatically around the edge 

 of the hole, the threads binding it firmly. 



The size of the button hole to be worked is easily regulated by turning 

 a screw at the end of the machine. 



The time required to stitch around a button hole an inch in length is 

 about twelve seconds, and an operator with the assistance of two girls to 

 prepare and bar the ends, will easily finish one thousand holes per day, all 

 exactly alike. 



The stitch, which is novel in character, can be applied to the making up 

 of all materials where two edges are to be sewed together. 



In conclusion, attention is asked to the following comments from Apple- 

 ton's American Annual Cyclopoedia : 



An important improvement in sewing machines was patented November 

 11, 1862, by J. A. & H. A. House, which is now the property off^the Wheeler 

 & Wilson Sewing Machine Co. It is designed specially for the working of 

 button and eyelet holes, although the range of the invention easily adapts 

 the peculiar stitch claimed to various other purposes; in fact, it may be 

 fairly said to supply the link which was needed to make the chain of auto- 

 matic movements in all classes of sewing, complete. 



For many years it has been the constant study of inventors to produce a 

 machine which would throw a stitch over the edge of any fabric so as to 

 cover or bind it. The great sewing machine companies of this country had. 

 expended many thousands of dollars in vain attempts to realize what was 

 finally voted almost an impossibility, though acknowledged to be a necessity. 



There had previously been several partially successful machines designed 

 for this purpose, invented and patented, but as the inventors appeared to 

 entertain the idea that the fabric must be moved under or around stationary 

 needles, the machines, though ingenious, were of no practical value, it be- 

 ing found impossible to form a perfect eyelet or rounded end of the button 

 hole. 



The idea of holding the fabric stationary and moving the needles around 

 it, at the same time throwing what may be termed a double loop interlac- 

 ing stitch over the edge of the whole finally occurred to the Messrs. Hou,«e, 

 and they, after several attempts, succeeded in producing the machine men- 

 tioned. 



