AMERICAN INSTITUTE. 



213 



4th. If the bud fails to grow, the stock upon which we have operated is 

 not destroyed, but only scarred where the bud was inserted, and we can 

 sometimes repeat the operation the same season ; if not, we have only to 

 wait until another year. 



5th. Budding can be performed with more rapidity and certainty than 

 grafting. 



What time in the summer shall we bud? is a question often asked, and 

 a very difficult one to answer. 



There are many rules laid down by our best authors, but there are so 

 many exceptions to all of them that none can be implicitly relied upon. 

 None of them will apply in different locations or different soils in the same 

 location. Some tell you to bud your cherries in July, without knowing 

 what kind of soil you have, or variety of stock you intend budding in. 



We have cherry stocks that must be budded this week (July 20) or not 

 at all this season, yet within one hundred feet of them are others that can- 

 not be budded successfully until September or October. 



If your soil is deep and rich, and your stocks grow late, you must defer 

 budding until late in the season, or the buds will be likely to be smothered 

 by the bark growing over them. Or, if not smothered, they will some- 

 times push out, make a feeble growth, and be killed or very materially 

 injured in the winter. 



The Mahaleb Cherry, the stock of which is used for dwarfing the larger 

 growing varieties, will on good soil grow very late, and we have budded 

 them in October, with scarcely a failure. 



Quince stocks with us grow until frost, while the seedling pear stocks 

 are so much affected with the leaf blight that we are compelled to bud 

 them so early as we can get buds sufilciently ripe to use. 



We can hasten the ripening of the buds 

 by pinching off the ends of the branches a 

 week or so before we cut them. We should 

 endeavor to have the buds fully developed. 

 When the terminal is formed, plump and 

 firm, the branch will do to take off, but it is 

 better not to use the upper two or three 

 buds, or the lower ones, as they are not 

 generally so good as those in the center of 

 the branch. 



PREPARING THE BUD. 



The practice of removing the wood from 

 the buds has been discarded as useless by 

 most of our nurserymen ; but it may be a 

 question whether some varieties of trees 

 would not succeed better if the wood were 

 removed. 



If the dwarf pear, which we import in 



