THE ROSE GARDEN 91 



as the plant is high and bend the latter over into the trench in a hori- 

 zontal position. It can be pegged down and then covered with soil 

 and a layer of manure as suggested for bush Roses. 



Another way is to leave the "tree" standing and cover it entirely 

 with hay or straw, which is secured by winding burlap around the 

 stem and then stuflBing a plentiful supply of the straw among and over 

 the branches, holding it in place by winding it in with the burlap. 

 This, however, is not as effective as the former method. 



PRUNING ROSES 



While soil and location are chiefly responsible for the general vigor 

 of the bush, it is mainly upon the method of pruning that the quantity 

 and quality of flowers depend. To fully understand the correct way 

 to prune it is necessary to know the habits of the Rose. 



Bush Roses are divided by characteristic habits of growth into 

 three distinct classes, namely. Shrub Roses, June Roses, and Monthly 

 Roses. 



Shrub Roses, such as the Japanese (Rosa rugosa) or Briar {Rosa 

 ruhiginosa) are treated just like ordinary flowering shrubs; as they 

 should not be included in a formal Rose garden, they can be omitted 

 here. 



June Roses (Hybrid Perpetuals), typified by General Jack and 

 Frau Karl Druschki, are vigorous growers and will make a tall bush 

 in one season. It is, however, flowers and not wood that is desired, 

 and we must prune with this aim in mind. The flowers are produced on 

 the current season's growth — the shoot grows and during June the 

 flower buds form on the end of it. Therefore, in order to produce 

 young shoots the old (previous year's) wood must be cut back. When 

 the bushes are planted in Autumn, the shoots may be shortened to 

 prevent excessive swaying by the wind. The real pruning, however, 

 must be done in Springj ust as the top buds begin to swell, which is, in 

 most cases, from the middle to the end of March. At that time, cut 

 away entirely all dead and thin, weakly shoots, leaving about three to 

 five good, strong canes; these should be well placed to form the skeleton 

 of a nice bush. Then prune these strong shoots back, to about four 

 to six eyes (leaf buds) — which means leaving about eight to twelve 

 inches of the old shoot. From these remaining eyes vigorous shoots 

 will quickly grow. Now to secure few, but large blooms, allow these 

 strong shoots to grow and pinch off all the side flower buds — allowing 

 only one or two to develop at the end. All the nourishment will then 



