224 GABDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 



broken off, and finally the sap, in full flow, pours from 

 the wounds and the tree is greatly weakened thereby. 



Pruned at the proper season, the tree throws all its 

 force upon the remaining buds, developing those which 

 would else be dormant. Where, however, a tree is too 

 vigorous to fruit well, a late spring pruning, when the 

 shoots begin to lengthen, will check its vigor and cause 

 the formation of fruit buds. 



The vine, currant, and gooseberry may be pruned at 

 any time between the suspension of growths and the first 

 flow of sap. In general, it is best to prune plants in the 

 order in which vegetation commences; first apricots, then 

 peaches, just as their buds begin to swell, plums and 

 cherries, then pears and apples. Stone fruits should be 

 lightly pruned, as they are apt to be injured by the issue 

 of gum from the wounds. 



Summer Pruning. — Shoots may be removed at any 

 time, if the tree seems to be throwing its strength in a 

 wrong direction. This is better accomplished by disbud- 

 ding — that is, removing those buds which would produce 

 unnecessary shoots, or pinching the extremities of those 

 shoots which are making too much wood. 



Pinching, or removing the growing point with the 

 finger and thumb, is the most essential operation in the 

 summer management, both of fruit trees and ornamental 

 1 daiits. The tendency of the sap is to the growing points, 

 and especially to those more elevated and exposed to the 

 light. The upper buds, if the tree or plant is near to and 

 shaded by others, are the only ones to develop, and, con- 

 sequently, it shoots upward rapidly, while the stem is not 

 proportionally developed, and few side branches are 

 thrown out. Such a tree must not only be cut back 

 severely at the winter pruning so as to shorten the leader 

 to perhaps one-third of its growth, but it needs looking to 

 in summer, or it will push upward as strongly as before. 



