558 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 



this cause than any other. Peach trees should always 

 be pruned by cutting off the extremities of the branches, 

 so as to leave about one-half of the last year's growth. 

 The fruit is produced on these small branches, and by 

 reducing the top in this manner, overbearing is prevented, 

 the fruit is effectually thinned, and is larger, finer 

 flavored, and nearly as much fruit can be taken from each 

 tree without danger of breaking. The tree is also kept 

 hyw and close, and more trees and larger crops can be 

 grown to the acre. 



This method of pruning is called shortening in, or head- 

 ing in, and is expeditiously done with pruning shears. 

 Old trees that have got out of shape can be pruned and 

 brought into a symmetrical form by sawing off limbs of 

 two or three years' growth at or near the forks; by this 

 method old trees can be renewed in vigor as well as in 

 form. Pruning can be performed* at any time when the 

 leaves are off. If it is wished to make young trees pro- 

 duce early, they may be shortened in the last of July, the 

 year they are transplanted. Care should be taken that 

 the branches do not divide into forks, as they are exceed- 

 ingly apt to split when bearing a crop of fruit. The peach, 

 like all other fruit trees, should branch low, say within 

 two feet of the ground, and be kept in a pyramidal or 

 round form, as nearly as can be done. 



The loss of the fruit by decay as it approaches maturity 

 is more annoying than anything else in peach culture. 



If the season is warm and wet very few kinds ripen 

 well if on moist or rich earth or soil. There is a very 

 common opinion that peaches propagated from the stones 

 of unripe fruit are more liable to rot than those from 

 stones or pits of fully ripened fruit; some also think decay 

 is caused by planting the trees too deep. It is, however, 

 certain that some varieties are much more subject to 

 decay than others placed in the same position. 



