164 



'The Palmette Verrier. 



the appearance of Fig. 38. We then, at the second pruning, have 

 to cut them at B, and also cut off about a third of the length of 

 the side shoots, as at A A, Fig. 38. If one side branch happens to 

 be stronger than the other, cut the stronger one somewhat shorter. 

 In cutting and pruning wall trees, the cut should be made above a 

 front bud, so that the wound made by the knife may be turned 

 towards the wall, and away from the eye, from which, of course, it 

 soon will be effectually hidden by this front bud pushing into a 

 shoot, and thickening at its base. During the second year no 

 more branches must be permitted to grow, simply because the 

 trainer desires to throw all the strength he can into the lower 

 branches, which are to be the longest. Sometimes, however, the 



FIG. 38. 



FIG. 39. 



FIG. 40. 



strength of the lower branches will permit the second stage of 

 branches to be made during the second year of training. At the 

 third pruning the trees will present somewhat the appearance of 

 Fig. 39, the central stem being cut at six inches or so above the 

 previous incision, which is indicated by a slight ring, and a third 

 part of the new growth of the side branches cut off, as shown on 

 the side branches of Fig. 39. Here, again, we cut above and inside 

 of three promising eyes to obtain a new stage of branches, and each 

 succeeding year add another stage; the same thing until the tree is 

 formed. Fig. 40 represents the aspect of the young tree at the 

 fourth pruning. At the end of the following growing season the 

 specimen will have grown sufficiently to allow the lower branches 



