THE GRAPE IN KANSAS. 15 



vines could be sufficiently shortened to enable them to be readily buried, and 

 then in the spring, when the vine was again tied to the stake, they could be pruned 

 to the proper length. 



As to the effect of spring or autumn pruning on the succeeding crop, other 

 things being equal, I believe that pruning in the spring is best. In my experi- 

 ence with a vineyard on the shores of the Hudson during twelve years, where the 

 vines did not require winter protection, I found that pruning in March and early 

 April, rather than in the fall, resulted in the best crop, for the reason that in fall 

 pruning the fruit-buds nearest to the excision of the cane was liable to die for 

 want of moisture or other cause, thus greatly diminishing the number of fruit- 

 bearing buds. 



The method of double pruning when practicable would require more labor 

 than in complete autumn pruning, but probably the extra labor would be more 

 than paid for in a larger crop. M. M. Frisselle. 



PRUNING GRAPE-VINES. 



Grape-vines may be pruned any time after the leaves drop in the fall until the 

 buds begin to push in the spring. No man can explain to another just how the 

 work should be done, because no established rule can be laid down. A satis- 

 factory knowledge of pruning can only be obtained by experience and a judicious 

 study of nature. 



Different varieties require different treatment, and it takes time and study to 

 find out what the requirements are. Nevertheless a few suggestions on the sub- 

 ject might prove helpful to an inquiring subscriber and others. 



Beginners are more liable to cause injury by leaving too much wood on their 

 vines than by pruning too closely. Another common mistake is that of leaving 

 the largest canes for fruiting where smaller ones would give better results. 



Vines just planted should be cut back to two or three buds ; after one year's 

 growth cut back to within about a foot of the ground, more or less, according to 

 growth. Do not allow vines to bear the second year, as it will check their 

 growth and loss will result in [the end. An occasional bunch may be left on 

 vigorous vines, but it will pay to pull most of them off when in bloom. Judg- 

 ment should be used again in pruning the second year's growth. The average 

 height of vine when pruned should be about four feet. 



The third year they may bear considerable fruit ; but in case there are weak 

 vines, these should not be allowed to bear much, which will allow them to catch 

 up with the strong ones, This exemplifies the importance of studying each vine 

 in the vineyard, whether there be one or many varieties, and treating each accord- 

 ing to its needs. 



In pruning for the fourth year's crop, the lateral branches, which form during 

 the third year's growth, should be cut back to within one or two buds of the 

 main vine, according to circumstances, the latter being cut back to six or seven 

 feet in length. Varieties which have a tendency to overbear should be pruned 

 closer and some of the bunches taken off soon after fruit has set. 



This treatment also applies to varieties having weak foliage. 



There are various ways of training grapes, but this is simply a matter of taste, 

 and not of so much importance. The trellis system is the cheapest way of sup- 

 porting vines and makes a much better appearance than the old way of training 

 to stakes. Where a trellis is used the main vines are pruned to resemble in shape 



