36 THE GRAPE IN KANSAS. 



feet. I prune closely during the winter and early spring; also prune during the 

 summer by cutting back to within one foot of the bunches. I use single stakes 

 for a trellis. Care for them with a cultivator and hoe; think a double-shovel 

 and five- tooth cultivator the best tools for this work. Do not mulch. Have 

 tried Concord, Ives's Seedling, Wilder, Moore's Early, and.Dracut Amber. Dis- 

 carded Dracut Amber; it is a good bearer but poor flavored. I would recom- 

 mend Concord and Moore's Early for this locality, although Concord does best. 

 Gather my grapes as soon as thoroughly ripe and sell for from three to five cents 

 per pound. I consider them a paying crop for home use. Have never sacked 

 them. Have put up unfermented grape juice canned it in Mason jars. 



R. C. CHASE, Hiawatha, Brown county: Have one-fourth of an acre of grape- 

 vines, planted on light, sandy upland, sloping slightly to the east. My varieties 

 are Concord, Moore's Early, Worden, Pocklington, Niagara, Empire State, Aga- 

 wam, Delaware, Lindley, and Perkins. Have discarded Niagara, Perkins, and 

 Empire State, because they are not hardy. Would recommend Concord, Wor- 

 den, Moore's Early, Pocklington, Lindley, Delaware, and Agawan. I prefer one- 

 year-old vines, set six feet apart. Till with cultivator and hoe. Prune on warm 

 days in February ; cut the new wood back to two or three buds ; cut out all dead 

 or nearly dead wood; do not summer prune, as I do not have time. I use posts 

 and wire for trellises. Have never bagged my grapes, because I do not think it 

 would pay. I cut my grapes into baskets with shears; market at home. 

 Other fruits pay better here. Have put up unfermented grape juice in small 

 quantities. 



B. F. OXLEY, Morrill, Brown county: I have been successful in raising 

 grapes by careful pruning and thorough cultivation. I have seventy-five grape- 

 vines, planted in deep, level loam. The varieties are Concord, Moore's Early, 

 Elvira, and Brighton. I would recommend, for trial, Worden and Moore's 

 Diamond. I prefer one-year-old vines, set eight feet apart, in rows ten feet 

 apart. Till with a five-shovel cultivator and hoe. Prune the new growth back 

 to two buds in February. My trellis is of three wires and posts eight feet apart. 

 Prune some in the summer, to shorten the long, new growth and give sunlight 

 where needed. Have never bagged my grapes, and would not advise it, as I do 

 not think the gain in value would pay the cost of bagging. Our soil, for miles 

 along the Missouri river, is excellent for grapes. 



NEIL HANSEN, Willis, Brown county: I have 200 grape-vines growing on 

 black soil over a clay subsoil which slopes to the west. I prefer a southeast 

 slope. My varieties are Concord and Brighton. I would recommend the Concord, 

 as it is a good bearer and easily tended. I have had good success with it. I pre- 

 fer two-year-old vines, set six feet apart; cultivate with shovel plow. Prune in 

 February, leaving two or three canes. My trellis is of posts and three No. 9 

 wires. I do very little summer pruning, as the sun affects the fruit too much. 

 I sometimes mulch my vines, but would not advise it, as it draws mice and in- 

 sects to them. Cut the fruit with a knife or scissors; market at home, realiz- 

 ing two cents per pound. They are a paying crop when cared for. 



J. J. JOHNSON, El Dorado, Butler county : I have 100 grape-vines growing on a 

 western slope of rock shale which runs down to good valley land. I like a slope * 

 into a wide valley, as I do not lose so much fruit from frost ; have best results on 

 western slope ; the vineyards on eastern slopes and level land are all dead. I set 

 s trong one-year-old vines, seven and one-half feet north and south and eight feet 

 east and west. I prune during nice weather in late winter or early spring ; cut 

 back all new growth to three buds; never summer prune in Kansas. For a trel- 



