THE GRAPE IN KANSAS. 37 



lie, I use hedge stakes five feet high ; use shorter ones on higher and poorer land, 

 as a low vine shades the ground better; cultivate as often as a crust forms, as 

 many as fifteen times during a season; besides I keep the weeds all cut out. I 

 use a one-horse cultivator and harrow; keep a perfect duet mulch during hot 

 and dry weather; I never mulch. Have tried Concord, Worden, Niagara, Pock- 

 lington, Elvira, Dracut Amber, and Merrimac; have discarded all but Concord 

 and Worden as unprofitable; Concord, Elvira and Worden do best here; I would 

 recommend Concord. Gather in twenty-pound baskets, and sell mostly in the 

 vineyard, receiving from one to four, generally two and one-half, cents per pound ; 

 they are only a fairly paying crop ; the yield is not heavy enough, but the quality 

 is always good. I would not advise extensive planting. Our fruit is never troubled 

 by birds, insects, nor rot, although the vines are affected by several insects. 

 Have never sacked the fruit. 



R. H. CHANDLER, Bazaar, Chase county : I have seventy-five Concord grape- 

 vines, planted in a black loam twelve feet deep which is level. I have tried 

 many varieties, but they have mostly discarded themselves. I prefer one-year- 

 old vines; have tried older ones but without success; set them eight feet apart; 

 do not cultivate after the vines are three years old ; prune from November to 

 February. My trellis is of wire, but I would use wood if in a windy place. 

 Summer pruning ought to be done in some places. Have never bagged my 

 grapes, and have never seen it done. I set out only enough vines for family use, 

 although we sell some every year; receive from three and one-half to four cents 

 per pound, while those raised on upland can be bought for one-half less. My 

 vineyard is protected by timber ; also by a barberry hedge. 



CHAS. PFLAGER, Elk, Chase county : I have 100 grape-vines growing on extra- 

 good bottom land which slopes to the southwest; am growing Concord and 

 some other varieties. I would recommend only the Concord. I have experi- 

 mentally tested a white grape and the Catawba. I prefer two-year-old vines, 

 set six feet apart; till with hoe and cultivator; prune in February and also 

 some in summer, to improve the fruit. I cut the fruit from the vines and market 

 at home. I consider them a paying crop. 



MIKE GAMER, Strong, Chase county: I have fifty Concord grape-vines, 

 planted on upland sloping to the south. I would recommend this variety, with 

 which I have had good success. I prefer two-year-old vines, set eight by eight 

 feet, cultivated with a hoe and kept clean for three years ; then mulch. Prune 

 very little. I think there is big profit in grapes. 



F. STARKEY, Elmdale, Chase county: I am growing the Concord and a white 

 grape on a southeastern slope. I recommend Concord. I prefer one-year-old 

 vines, set six by eight feet ; till with a plow and double-shovel. Prune in March, 

 leaving two canes. My trellis is wire. Do not summer prune, on account of 

 hail. Do not bag the fruit. Gather in baskets and market in the city, realizing 

 fifty dollars per acre, which I consider good pay. I have forty-eight Concord 

 grapes situated on what is known as "plains marl," underlaid with a hard-pan 

 about a foot from the surf ace, having a slight eastern slope. Tried Clinton several 

 years ago, but discarded it because it was barren. I plant one-year old vines, in 

 rows three by eight feet. I turn the ground up two or three times a season with 

 a four-tined fork, hoe, and pull out the weeds. Use posts and two wires for a 

 trellis, but do not like it ; will make a trellis next spring in the form of a roof, of 

 narrow board and wire. Prune in February, by trimming to two best vines. Have 

 not summer pruned any, but believe it a good method. This is the first year I 



