38 THE GRAPE IN KANSAS. 



have had grapes in bearing, and think they are one of the fruits that can be grown 

 here. They have been winter-killed the past two winters; I think they should 

 be protected for a year or two after planting. Have irrigated for two years and 

 expect to do so in the future, in order to get good results. 



W. P. McKEE, Cedarvale, Chautauqua county : Have 200 grapes in all ; part 

 are planted on sloping limestone, the balance are in a valley. I prefer an eastern 

 slope. Set one-year-old vines, either ten or eight by ten feet. Prune in Febru- 

 ary ; cut away all of last year's growth excepting two buds. Use a trellis of posts 

 and wires. Till them with a cultivator between the rows and a hoe around the 

 vines. Have never tried mulching. Have tried Concord, Dracut Amber, Wor- 

 den, Pocklington, Vergennes, Elvira, and Niagara; have discarded Niagara, 

 Pocklington, Worden, and Vergennes, as they will not stand dry weather on val- 

 ley land. Those that do best here are Concord, Dracut Amber (if planted on a 

 slope), and a white variety which is extra tine and an abundant bearer. I con- 

 sider grapes a paying crop and would advise extensive planting in this locality. 

 Have never sacked the fruit. 



JEKE ELLEXSON, Chautauqua, Chautauqua county: Have 140 vines growing 

 in sandy loam with clay subsoil, sloping to the south. Have tested three varie- 

 ties and discarded none : would recommend Moore's Early and Concord. I plant 

 yearling vines, eight feet apart ; cultivate with one horse, five-tooth cultivator and 

 hoe. Prune in January and February, not later than the 10th; use a common 

 pruning knife; have summer pruned, but it does not pay. My trellis is a post 

 seven feet high for each grape-vine, with a crosspiece two and one-half feet long. 

 Have not sacked grapes, but would advise it. Cut, sort, and pack in ten-pound 

 baskets; market in Sedan and Chautauqua; receive one to two cents per pound. 



THOMAS H. GUEST, Graf ton, Chautauqua county : Have thirty acres of grape- 

 vines. A deep, black, sandy loam is the best soil ; a southeastern slope is best, 

 because they get all the morning sun, which prevents black rot and gives them a 

 better flavor. My varieties are Concord and Moore's Early. Have discarded 

 Moore's Early, because of black rot and bird's-eye rot. Concord is a success 

 under all conditions. Plant one- or two-year-old vines, eight by ten feet. Till 

 with a five-toothed cultivator and scraper, forming a dust mulch, which will in- 

 sure against the droughts of July and August, while the fruit is ripening. Prune 

 in February, cutting out one-half of new wood, and leaving three buds to a cane. 

 Summer prune with corn-knife, to make clusters more vigorous. My trellis has 

 two No. 12 wires. Do not bag my grapes, as I think the grapes more vigorous 

 and better flavored without. Gather with knife or clippers into eight-pound 

 baskets; market in Colorado and Oklahoma territory, realizing forty dollars per 

 acre. They pay. Have put up unfermented grape juice; we heat the juice, 

 skim, and put in self-sealing cans. For black and bird's-eye rot, spray with Bor- 

 deaux mixture once before leaves start, twice thereafter, or as of ten as necessary. 

 This mixture will surely prevent these two diseases. Either Paris green or 

 London purple will destroy all leaf- eating insects. 



A. S. DENISON, Columbus, Cherokee county: I have about fifty vines, 

 planted on a gray loam with a clay subsoil and an eastern slope. I set out one- or 

 two-year-old vines, six by eight feet; prune in February, by cutting back; do 

 not prune during summer. My trellis is eight feet high, having wires on the 

 sides and top. Do not cultivate ; I pull the weeds and keep the grass cut short with 

 the lawn-mower; mulch my vines. Have tried Concord, Dracut Amber, Clinton, 

 Delaware, and Isabella. Have discarded Clinton, Delaware, and Isabella, because 



